Workbench Drawings

Click drawing for larger view

There are two exploded drawings. One is a front elevation and the other is an overhead view.

The exploded views provide a visual presentation of how the various modules fit together. The concept of building in modules allows the workbench to be easily disassembled and relocated by one person.

The modules are fabricated out of ¾ inch Baltic birch plywood and assembled using Kreg pocket screw construction and Titebond III glue.

The base is 2 ½ inches high. The modules are 30 ½ inches high and the top is 1½ inches thick. Providing and overall height of 34 ½ inches that matches the height of my table saw. There is an aisle between the table saw and the work bench. When a roller stand is place between the table saw and the work bench, the top of the work bench becomes an extension of the table saw top.

The overall length and width of the assembled modules is 42 x 90 inches. The top is 48 x 96 inches. This allows a 3 inch overhang all the way around that is essential for clamping work to the bench top.

I made the shelves adjustable using slotted shelf strips rabbetted into the sides. As it turned out I positioned the shelves equally spaced within the module and should have just made fixed shelves and saved approximately $80.00.

The module with the cans of paint etc is 42 inches wide and 6 inches deep.

The strip wood modules, there are two, are open clear thru the workbench. They are 15 ¾ inches wide and 42 inches deep.

The power tool modules, there are two, are 33 inches wide and 19 inches deep. When assembled there will be an open or dead space between the backs of these two modules. These two modules should be made deeper.

The “cheese box” drawer module is 42 inches wide and 12 inches deep.

The four-filler strips with the 120 volt outlets are 4 inches wide. Standard plastic electrical boxes are installed and wired together with Romex cable. The wiring is concealed within the base. There is a short section of heavy duty orange extension cord from one of the outlets that plugs into a GFCI wall outlet in the garage.

The base is made of 2x4 pressure treated lumber set on edge with mitered corners. The rectangular frame was set in place and shimmed level with cedar shingles. In each corner and mid-way on each long side, 2x4x6 inch long PT blocks were laid flat on the floor and Tapconed to the floor. The rectangular frame is screwed through the sides into the anchor blocks. It is important for later use that the bench top be level in both directions.

When mounting the modules to one another install 1/8 thick by 1 inch wide vertical strips between each module at the front edge only. This will allow you to shift and wiggle the modules around to compensate for any out of squareness. Do not use any glue when attaching the modules to one another or to the base. Doing so will make future disassembly very difficult.

When installing the top, the first sheet of plywood for the top is screwed from the top down to the tops of the modules with just a few screws to hold it in place. The second and top sheet is screwed from the bottom up through the module and the first sheet and into the top sheet. The two sheets of plywood are not glued together. This allows for the top sheet to be flipped over or replaced when it becomes excessively worn.

I choose not to apply any finish, varnish, polyurethane, etc to the workbench. In use I do not hesitate to screw directly into the top to temporarily attach jig blocks, hold-downs etc. When doing glue-ups I tape freezer paper to the workbench top.

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